Scooter 101

anyone ever make their own scooter "Gauge console"?

I have a Dive XTra Sierra (great starter unit) and I feel that buying a mount seems a little ridiculous when I could cut something out of a sheet of aluminum/steel I could get on McMaster Carr...

any help or pics would be appreciated.

I did this a few years ago when I had my Cuda. I bought a small piece of 2 or 3 mm AL, looked at pictures online, measured my compass, and cut the shape out with a hacksaw. I found thumbscrews with the proper thread at the hardware store, too.

I eventually abandoned it and moved on to a kayak compass mounted on the tube, as it worked much better than a SK7 mounted on the handle. I was always happy with a computer on my right wrist, so didn't bother with a depth gauge or computer on the scoot.

I'll dig around tonight and see if I have pictures.

Jim


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I did this a few years ago when I had my Cuda. I bought a small piece of 2 or 3 mm AL, looked at pictures online, measured my compass, and cut the shape out with a hacksaw. I found thumbscrews with the proper thread at the hardware store, too.

I eventually abandoned it and moved on to a kayak compass mounted on the tube, as it worked much better than a SK7 mounted on the handle. I was always happy with a computer on my right wrist, so didn't bother with a depth gauge or computer on the scoot.

I'll dig around tonight and see if I have pictures.

Jim


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+1 on the kayak compas in front. Much better to see while scootering

David


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I'm using the Silva 70UN Compass screwed onto the tubes of my 3 scooters :

http://silva.se/product/compasses/compass-70un-2/

and have no problems with tilting the scooters at least 45° in any direction. These compasses are also capable of being compensated, and I've used them as deep as 120M with no problems since they are fully oil-filled. With the mounts I paid @ 90USD each for them. The illuminated version is NOT suitable for diving though.

Michael
 
Is there anything out there considered a good starter read on scooters?

I have never paid much attention to them other than to know the brand names and that they are out there. I've been actively avoiding ever so much as touching one because I have known the moment I did it would be instant obsession.

But I figure now's about the time to start doing the research and sometime over the next year or so, pull the trigger (so to speak).

As of today, though, I don't know what the pros and cons across the field are. I don't even know what questions to ask ABOUT the different scooters are.

Where to start?



Weight?

Burn time?

Power?

Performance in use? (in terms of ease of use and comfort)

Repair costs?

Battery replacement costs?

Reliabuility?

Cost?


I had a Gavin with 60mins burn time and a single speed trigger and variable pitch prop

It weighed a tone which was IMHO its one and only failing

60mins burn did every wreck dive i ever needed it to do

Lead Acid tec ment replacement batteries didnt break the bank

Very easy to work on

Draged me along fast enough to make my neak seel leak and threaten to give my Jaw ache holding the loop in

Handled great (IMHO)

Easy to work on.

Sub £1000 second hand

Bomb proof


BUT dont underestimat the MASIVE down side of the weight. It made me leave it at home more than a few times.

I wanted one of the new compact NiMh type units but haveing seen the cost of battery replacements in under 2 years of ownership I was put off. That and the 2000+ S/H price tag on most of the ones I wanted.

Lots of scooters about now on the S/H market so id possably risk a Ni Mh or simila now you can get one sub £1500
 
I started a thread asking about "the best" scooters over on TDS, which quickly turned into manufacturers and fanboys pushing their product and poo-pooing others, along with statements like "when X expedition dive a cave on mars 10,000 feet deep and 100 miles back, they relied on Y brand scooters."

There used to be a bunch of good info on Dive Matrix, but I don't know whatever happened to that forum.

At the basic level, you'll find 3 main battery types: lead acid, NiMh, and lithiums.

Lead is the oldest, argued as the most reliable and easiest to replace ("can find lead acid batteries in any third world country"), the heaviest, and gives the shortest duration for similar models. These tend to go for pretty cheap nowadays, with some Mako types going for $500ish on various forums. I seem to remember burntimes of about an hour to two, for scooters that weigh 70+ pounds. In this category you'll find Makos, gavins, and older Silent Submersion scooters (uv-18, 26).

Next up in age of technology and price are the nimh scooters. These ruled about 5 years ago, with the DiveX cuda, some SS models I don't remember, the Hollis entry model, some suex'es, etc. the newer battery technology meant longer run times for the same or less weight, along with more advanced electronics (speed controllers, etc). I had a Cuda 850, which had something like 300 minutes burn time, but weighed 70 pounds. There were increasingly smaller models, but all had burntimes of at least an hour to 90 minutes, typically at a fraction of the weight. Used ones tend to go for $2-3k, but the nimh battery chemistry is somewhat limited. I had to replace my battery after 4 or 5 years, and it cost a grand. As a side note, most manufacturers still make nimh scooters as either entry level or travel models. Expect about 90min runtime from them.

Newest are the lithium models. These are light, powerful, and expensive. They are difficult to ship, and you can't fly with them. Some have advanced electronics, including programmable controllers and downloadable logs of battery usage. These start at about $5k for a 20-30lb scooter that can deliver over 2 hours burntime (as opposed to 50-60lbs for nimh and 80-90 for lead acid), all the way up to 8-9 grand for expedition models with ridiculous runtimes.

I think the most important question to ask yourself is what kind of runtime you need. When I was shore diving, I wanted at least 3 hours, as I'd do two 90 minute dives (on the trigger) in one day. When I moved to NC, I didn't need that at all, as I was only really on the trigger for 20-30 minutes on the wrecks for a 60 minute dive. I think you need to realistically judge what you need (5 hour burntimes are awesome, but do you really need it?) for runtime. That will narrow down what models to look at, new and used. From there, determine your budget, look at what weight you'll be comfortable with, look at features/maintenance/repair costs, see what is local that you can try and/or get support for, etc.

The Tahoe Benchmark used to be the go-to document to compare scooters. It's not been updated for a few years, but might give some insight into the models that you'll fine on the used market nowadays.

Jim


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There used to be a bunch of good info on Dive Matrix, but I don't know whatever happened to that forum.

The owner quit diving and moved to Maryland (from California) for love and marriage. While nothing on the internet really goes away, dive matrix is lost enough to be useless.
 
I started many years ago with a Gavin. I even had the long hull as well as the short hull. The short hull was heavy enough, but the long hull was a brute (120lbs dry).

Sold it around 2005 for the first X-scooter (Echo). Lovely little scooter. Half the weight of the Gavin but pretty much the same driving, battery, etc. Sold it when all the newer ones came out and I'd moved to where it no longer made sense. (at the time).

Recently I got back in with the new Dive-X Piranna 1. Small, light, fast. Best of all, if I do need to extend the run time, I can just add a battery to my existing P1 and it's ready to go. So far in almost a dozen dives it's been a real blast. With the rebreather it really fits, allowing me some extended dives that I would not want to do just swimming. I *could* swim them, I just don't want to. That way, if the scooter ever dies mid-dive, I can still swim home without any real problem.
 
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