Starting off on a classic

K

kit wrecker

New Member
I'm new here so please be gentle :)
I have been thinking of getting a classic to start off with and then later upgrading to vision when experience and funds permit.
Is there any specific add ons I should consider from the start.
I have only dive a Poseidon previously

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Hey and welcome

For normal MOD-1 diving (no deco, 40m max) the classic is pretty good straight out of the box.

I'd look at getting an ADV with it - although most 2ndhand ones will already have one installed. Maybe an OCB/BOV too. If you're buying one second hand, look for the ones with the SMB coax cells rather than the molex, this indicates a recent-ish service of the head.

You could look at all kinds of fruit including stands, back mounted lungs, travel frames and so on but if your intention is to just use the Classic as a stepping stone I probably wouldn't bother.
 
Get a HUD

display only ECCR are high risk IMHO unless you fit a HUD and the Classic has some interesting failure modes to catch you out.

I fitted a HUD dive two on my Classic and I never regretted it.

ATB

Mark
 
Good point. Mine came with a shearwater and it's an excellent combo. But if the classic's a stepping stone it's half the value of the breather for the HUD nowadays - that's a big jump for something that becomes redundant if you get a Vision.
 
kit wrecker said:
What sort of HUD should I be looking for, any specific makes?

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One of these in Molex or Coax depending on what you dive cell wise

http://www.narkedat90.com/coax_hud_p/coaxhud.htm

I put my hud in the head by drilling the head and using a cheep old gland

There is a removable adaptor but its further expense

If your concerned about doing it, get Narked @ 90 to sort you out.

ATB

Mark

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Cool, that definitely sounds like the sort of thing. Was going to go for the BOV anyway as I got used to it with the Poseidon. Thanks

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kit wrecker said:
Cool, that definitely sounds like the sort of thing. Was going to go for the BOV anyway as I got used to it with the Poseidon. Thanks

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I realy like having a BOV and I think they are important but in order of priority it would be a HUD first.

Saved my arse a couple of times on my Classic

YDpics8.jpg
 
If you don't get one. With bov I know a chap who has a few shrimps left. Golem gear shrimps are best bov on the market. At gbp450 delivered is a cheaper option than apd one.
 
Does the HUD on inspirations or evolution have ability to do Smithers code? And if not does anyone feel that could be a downside to this rebreather?


Garth
 
Garth said:
Does the HUD on inspirations or evolution have ability to do Smithers code? And if not does anyone feel that could be a downside to this rebreather?


Garth
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Garth the HUD on the vision inspirations (or evolutions) is not Smithers code. It is also not the same as user setpoint mode on your HH. It is basically green if it is in a safe range and red if it is not. And this range of "safe" is large. On the HH the safe range when using user setpoint mode is a percentage away from your selected setpoint.

On the vision There are four LEDs a green and a red for each controller.

The really interesting thing about this HUD is that the LEDs are in the Head so there are no electrical wires to fail in the HUD cable.


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The Classic is an excellent starter unit. I would personally not spend a ton of money modifying it, though. Get a CCR dive-computer and build some hours on it, then sell [probably for no loss], and get a Vision/other unit. I see Classic's changing hands for near a grand now but I'd spend a bit more than that and get one freshly serviced to avoid surprises. You do not want to be lumbered with the service bill for the cracked handset, that's for sure.

If you want the better features like a HUD from the off then I'd go for a used Vision and a table/timer - overall I would think this will not cost you much more and will give you a better base to work from going forwards.

YMMV.

Matt.
 
Could you give us the instance a HUD saved you, as i have now been diving my classic for two years, and love the simplicity, but I have been considering upgrades and saw this as one possible.

I have always thought that should mine start beeping at me, its bail out onto my open circuit. I have no BOV or HUD.

I would just dive the classic as it is, and get used to rebreather diving, buoyancy control etc without worrying about bells and whistles. Just keep and eye on your handsets, and practice your bailout drills.
 
I dive a vision and a classic and don't mind the lack of hud on the classic as I have a shearwater wired in, i can see at a glance what is going on. I also prefer not having a bov. Rotate bailout cylinders according to depth so my left hand automatically rests on the correct reg (from top cylinder) then its always the same limb track to go OC and it takes about 2 seconds. Personally I can't stand the harnesses they come with and have my units on ss backplates, so that would be my first recommended mod. Second, by a Shearwater when you can afford to and it can stay with you regardless of witch unit you may have in future.

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I have been diving a classic (with shearwater HUD) to 90m for about 10 years and never felt the need to change. If I were buying now I would get a vision, by the time you have bought a ccr computer and maybe added a HUD the vision is probably the same cost. Having said that a classic and a VR3 off eBay would be a cheap and workable solution.
 
My HUD saved me on my 3rd open water MOD1 course dive.

During the mask off/stage remove & replace drill my instructor switched off my master handset. I heard the alarm and thought "yeah, I'll deal with that presently when I have a mask back on and can see again". Shortly afterwards I noticed a hell of a lot of flashing from the HUD and started counting - 0.3? Hmmm, let's add a bunch of O2. Got my mask back eventually and switched the master on to be confronted with the pre-dive sequence: unbeknownst to my instructor, I'd somehow managed to knock the slave switch and had been flying with no Classic brains at all. I suspect that, without the HUD, that mask free swim may well have ended in some sleepy time.

It's also nice having an independent system on the same cells to know whether it's the cells or the controllers playing up when things go a bit skewy. Especially when using AP cells...

Funny you should mention the classic/vr3 combo - it's a bloody good little combination and what I was diving until "upgrading" to a NiTek Q4 recently.
 
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