For Sale Shearwater HUD

Walt Stearns

Walt Stearns

Member
This Shearwater HUD was previously a part of my KISS Classic Rebreather, but now that I have replaced it with a Shearwater NERD 2, I no longer have a need for it.

It still is a great unit that can be added to a KISS Classic, Spirit, Side Kick or Sidewinder CCR, as well as a number of other model rebreathers out there.

The condition on this HUD is still in excellent working order, cosmetic condition is pretty darn good as well and exactly what you see in the pictures posted for it. The overall length (including battery box) between the end of the LED HUD and the strain-relief that would fit the rebreather is 38-inches. There are three bare leads ready for wiring to read three individual O2 cells. This HUD comes with a Golem Shrimp BOV mount made for the Shearwater HUD. My asking price is $500. USD which also covers shipping.
 

Attachments

  • HUD_01.jpg
    HUD_01.jpg
    389.5 KB · Views: 37
DSix36 said:
What year was this one manufactured? I ask because the older ones do not support cell isolation.
Click to expand...

Interested in the Shearwatef HUD. Could someone explain “cell isolation.” Is this the difference between three independent displays verses the sharing of a common lead, that if interrupted, causes the loss of all three cell displays?

Thanks in advance
 
Cell isolation - the simple idea

When using more than one display and sharing a cell (or cells) you do not want a problem with a display (or cable) to effect the reading of the other display. By making sure the displays are isolated from one another you have a much better chance of still having the ability to monitor your po2 correctly if a dispaly goes tits up. Otherwise you will need 3 cells for each display.
 
FYI for any rEvo divers that might be wanting a Shearwater HUD, and you should if you don't already have one, do not be scared by the short cable leading to the cells. If you mount the box on the top tray the cable is long enough to reach inside the counterlung before you need to splice onto it. Since this is at ambient pressure, the splice does not have to be as serious as the cable itself. I used a chunk of ethernet cable, a bit of silicone, and heat shrink tubing did the trick nicely. I did this for many many years before I finally broke down and got a newer one to allow isolation. it was still working fine when I removed it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top