Heating undergarments
- Thread starter JTB
- Start date
JONT
New Member
Solid Review Peter,
I like the LM controller very much, the UWLD controller is in a class all its own though.
Cheers Peter
JonT
Aaen
Member
I can attest to the thermulations not being the greatest. I've had issues and had it sent back twice this one works but I'm going to part with it as I don't like the heat from it nor the location of the heating pad.
I'm currently waiting on word back about buying a uwld controller/battery/light head so I can make my purchase and get away from my thermulation.
Trying to figure out on what vest right now to buy. Leaning towards the santi but still up in the air as I don't want the extra insulation from it.
Regards
Steve
I'm currently waiting on word back about buying a uwld controller/battery/light head so I can make my purchase and get away from my thermulation.
Trying to figure out on what vest right now to buy. Leaning towards the santi but still up in the air as I don't want the extra insulation from it.
Regards
Steve
No, it uses a totally different heating system, a microwave thing. I quickly spoke with the rep at the dive show who said it works ok, but he is the rep! Batteries are sealed but inside the suit. I'm giving it consideration only coz it's made by Jesuit, otherwise I would think no good of it.
I have been using the Thermalution yellow for about a dozen dives. Works wet or dry. Dove it wet a few times and it worked well. Have been using it dry for 8 or 9 dives with no problems so far.
Of course i am only running it to about 100 ft or so max so far. i have been happy with this one. Have not gotten to setting 3, way to hot. I use it over a wicking layer and under my fleece layer. I dive a waterproof d-10. I keep the remote clipped off to my d ring.
Of course i am only running it to about 100 ft or so max so far. i have been happy with this one. Have not gotten to setting 3, way to hot. I use it over a wicking layer and under my fleece layer. I dive a waterproof d-10. I keep the remote clipped off to my d ring.
Been using a UTD heated kidney wrap for awhile now. Its about 30W and while that's not a ton of heat it works well for me so far. I have not found the heat "only" on the kidneys factor to be a big deal. I use it with a 15Ah li-ion pack which is 11V nominal so I suspect my true output is slightly less than 30W. I have an E/O cord off the engine on my RIB and its really toasty running off a solid 14V, so much so that I have to turn it on and off.
http://www.utdscubadiving.com/en/pr...it-heating-system-heat-padthrough-portno-batt
I usually just use it on my longest/coldest dive days. I think if I were to start all over I would get a golem vest and a Pitkin for it. But I have the wrap and its working adequately - so no reason to upgrade yet.
http://www.utdscubadiving.com/en/pr...it-heating-system-heat-padthrough-portno-batt
I usually just use it on my longest/coldest dive days. I think if I were to start all over I would get a golem vest and a Pitkin for it. But I have the wrap and its working adequately - so no reason to upgrade yet.
Hi, where can I find more info about UWLD controller?
It will work as a stand alone controller like one from LM?
btw, how about LM controller? easy to operate?
Cheers,
PeterN
Active Member
The light Monkey is very easy to use. You just flick the switch. If you loose track of the setting, just turn off and re do. A blinking light tells you what is happening. I might buy the dedicated battery with the built in controller as that would reduce clutter.
I have no knowledge of the UWLD product.
Peter
JONT
New Member
Hi,
Contact UWLD or Cave Country Dive Shop directly, if you PM me I can help get you the info you want.
My UWLD heating controller is a PROTO TYPE so please keep that in mind, its MY UNDERSTANDING that its very close to the production model (physically identical) with only the range between settings being the difference, there are 5 settings, I believe that the production unit will have a slightly larger spread between power settings.
I like this system the best because of the wide range of heat settings and ease of use, a pizo switch controls the system and a flashing red light within the pizo switch lets you know what setting your on, EO cord makes it very versatile, and with the stack cap you can run an UWLD light and heat controller off of one battery.
The biggest issue I've seen with most controllers is that the low heat setting is just to high for "cave country" water, we like heat for LONG dives but the heat doesn't need to be that strong, with the UWLD controller and large battery I think you can get 18 +/- hours of heat on the low setting so it works very well, there's no need to turn the heat off for a bit to cool down.
Hope this helps.
JonT
I have been diving heated gear for a few years now. Once you start you cannot stop, more than 20 min of deco and I am plugging in!
I have used several varieties.
Currently I use a Tour Master Synergy 2.0 motorcycle vest with the stock controller removed. It works great and has not developed any hot spots yet. An added bonus is that it is fairly cheap and readily available.
For a bulkhead I have the standard low profile 90 degree E/O bulkhead in my TLS and the Light Monkey Inflation Valve in my CLX. I prefer the LM Valve, it is so much easier to hook up with cold fingers, and you do not have to cut a new hole in your suit.
For batteries I have a few; an older 4.5ah slimline, a 10ah LM and a 32ah LM. On the longer dives I like to stage batteries, redundancy is your friend. You do not want to loose heat from one failure, and we share them as a team.
I also use the LM Pitkin controller, it is super simple and can be swapped from pack to pack, removed, or loaned to a friend. I typically start on low heat and will ramp up for my shallow stops.
It is a versatile system that minimizes failures, nearly everyone I dive with uses this same setup with great success.
I have used several varieties.
Currently I use a Tour Master Synergy 2.0 motorcycle vest with the stock controller removed. It works great and has not developed any hot spots yet. An added bonus is that it is fairly cheap and readily available.
For a bulkhead I have the standard low profile 90 degree E/O bulkhead in my TLS and the Light Monkey Inflation Valve in my CLX. I prefer the LM Valve, it is so much easier to hook up with cold fingers, and you do not have to cut a new hole in your suit.
For batteries I have a few; an older 4.5ah slimline, a 10ah LM and a 32ah LM. On the longer dives I like to stage batteries, redundancy is your friend. You do not want to loose heat from one failure, and we share them as a team.
I also use the LM Pitkin controller, it is super simple and can be swapped from pack to pack, removed, or loaned to a friend. I typically start on low heat and will ramp up for my shallow stops.
It is a versatile system that minimizes failures, nearly everyone I dive with uses this same setup with great success.
erikradstrom
Deep Pursuit 001
Im using this one for heat control, you just put it inside the suit between the vest and suit connection.
You toggle the switch on the standard canister on/off once and it goes down to 70%, one more time and it is 40%.
No leds that break or stuff that can be flooded. If you want to go back up, turn it of 10 seconds and it will start at full power.
It will only switch down so no flashing lights is needed to keep track on what level you are at.
It also makes it possible to use a 14.8V batterypack on a 12V system.
34mm diameter and 16mm height
JONT
New Member
Who makes this? Nice design.
michael_fisch
Member
Yeah, I'd be interested too since I'd rather not spend a fortune on new battery packs in order to replace custom made battery packs that I have been using happily for years (2 packs, each containing 2 seperate 12V 15Ah NiMh Batterys). A controller that I can use inside the suit, and swap between suits would be the perfect solution, preferaby w/o connectors on the cable ends since I'd rather not have to swap out the very reliable high quality Tamiya connectors that haven't ever given me trouble in over 10 years.
Michael