I currently have a Haskell that I use to boost O2 and helium. In the future I would like to be able to bank mix for the RB and boost from a set of doubles (DIN). Obviously, I still want to be able to boost O2 and He so ideally I want to set up a quick disconnect system so I can go back and forth between an O2 bottle and a DIN supply. I need help with getting the proper fittings. I'll try and attach a pic of my current set up.
Quick disconnect fittings
- Thread starter Whitt
- Start date
I currently have a Haskell that I use to boost O2 and helium. In the future I would like to be able to bank mix for the RB and boost from a set of doubles (DIN). Obviously, I still want to be able to boost O2 and He so ideally I want to set up a quick disconnect system so I can go back and forth between an O2 bottle and a DIN supply. I need help with getting the proper fittings. I'll try and attach a pic of my current set up.
Captain Starfish
New Member
You could also purchase a DIN to bullnose adapter to leave in the twinset. That way you just switch the intake hose between twinset, O2 and He sources?
sunnyboy
Member
My booster has DIN fittings on both ends. I bought a DIN-to-O2 fitting and then an O2-to-He fitting. That way I can boost from any DIN SCUBA tank or an O2 bottle or a He bottle. The only downside of this is the DIN(female) to O2 fitting was really expensive ($85 CDN).
Alternately you can put a high pressure QC fitting on the booster, then build or buy a QC-to-DIN fitting, a QC-to-O2 fitting and a QC-to-He fitting. The disadvantage is you now need to build 3 adapters. But that's the way most folks do it that I've seen.
I did mine the way I described because the booster came with DIN fittings on both ends and I didn't feel like messing with them.
Alternately you can put a high pressure QC fitting on the booster, then build or buy a QC-to-DIN fitting, a QC-to-O2 fitting and a QC-to-He fitting. The disadvantage is you now need to build 3 adapters. But that's the way most folks do it that I've seen.
I did mine the way I described because the booster came with DIN fittings on both ends and I didn't feel like messing with them.
You want the straight thru "power washer" fittings - the brass ones are cheapest and last a decade+. The part numbers in oxyhacker are way out of date but they are readily available from McMaster. Mcmaster calls them "open flow" QDs
You will need one male to female on the cylinder fitting side
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=16i0bvv
And one male to female on the bleed screw side
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=16i0ccg
Then an additional male DIN (with 1/4" NPT outlet) and a male to male QD fitting to go from the female QD into the male NPT of the DIN fitting
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=16i0dgk
The orings included are buna but can replaced with edpm or nitrile. The QDs will cost you <$20 plus the cost of the DIN which you can get from NESS
You will need one male to female on the cylinder fitting side
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=16i0bvv
And one male to female on the bleed screw side
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=16i0ccg
Then an additional male DIN (with 1/4" NPT outlet) and a male to male QD fitting to go from the female QD into the male NPT of the DIN fitting
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-quick-disconnect-hose-couplings/=16i0dgk
The orings included are buna but can replaced with edpm or nitrile. The QDs will cost you <$20 plus the cost of the DIN which you can get from NESS
hamishmorrison
Member
This was exactly my thought too. I find much of my diving is suitable for a 20/20 mix & not wanting to blend every time I fill, I repurposed an old 12 ltr twinset as a bank. Swapping between the J & the DIN valve is easily sorted with the relatively cheap addition of one of these: https://subaqua-products.co.uk/cata...0-300-din-female-bullnose/category_pathway-22. Obviously not quick release but its simple & it works.
Attachments
Sounds like the easiest fix...
Except you won't find one easily in the USA
sunnyboy
Member
The other advantage of my setup is that I bought a standard transfill whip with DIN fittings and can use the DIN-to-O2 adapter to transfill O2 as well when the T of O2 is new and doesn't really need to be boosted.
I used this fitting for O2: http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/female-din-to-o2-adapter/
and this fitting for He: http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/o2-to-inert-gas-adapter/
I used this fitting for O2: http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/female-din-to-o2-adapter/
and this fitting for He: http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/o2-to-inert-gas-adapter/
+1 for the McMaster-Carr QD fitting solution. Brass is fine but I went with 304 stainless mostly because the rest of my setup was also stainless. Very important: replace the o-rings in the female QD with viton if you are going to use the setup with rich O2 mixtures. Neither EPDM or nitrile are good choices for high pressure O2 use. If you are super paranoid, you can buy Kalrez and never worry again, but I don't like spending $80 on a single o-ring... Just buy the brown viton so you can keep track of them separately from the typical hydrocarbon-based rubber o-rings, and you'll be in good shape.
Sorry
keylargojimy
Member
Ken is right on here as usual!! Thatt was very hard to say! Ha
keylargojimy
Member
Ken is right on here as usual...
Mcmaster part numbers (NPT side - QD side):
M-M = 6537k91
F-M = 6537k11
M-F = 6537k82
F-F = 6537k73
Make the whip side the female (you'll only need one) and the CGA/supply side male (you'll need 3: one for your O2, one for He, and one for DIN fitting)
edited a typo in one part number
M-M = 6537k91
F-M = 6537k11
M-F = 6537k82
F-F = 6537k73
Make the whip side the female (you'll only need one) and the CGA/supply side male (you'll need 3: one for your O2, one for He, and one for DIN fitting)
edited a typo in one part number
Last edited: