classic with some bomb proof handsets

Angleseyskipper

New Member
The story started like a lot of other people with multiple failure of these fragile units.
With no solution from source i decided it was time to put this to bed .

I served me time in electrical engineering so it would not be a difficult task.
The unit was stripped down to bare with every cable binned and Junction PCB board,handsets etc stripped and cleaned ready for rewire.
tinned cable was use which is standard in a marine enviroment.
i use pre-wired coax and removed the disc on the connector and filled the void with epoxy as this is one weak point for moisture entry.
coax connector external had standard heat shrink replaced with adhesive heatshrink collar to prevent water entering the fine coax screen and wicking up causing failure.
The handsets were a simple retro fit re-using the magnetic sliders and switch.
i machined the handsets from a solid billet of delrin and used lexan bullet proof plastic for the screen.
a single o ring seals the top plate.
Due to the size of the controllers this is as small as you could make em and still keep the strength ie you could happily drive a car over them!!!
i turned 2 adapters to go from AP hose tail to Metric thread into handset.
re-used plastic hose collets with adhesive heatshrink over.
topped out with stainless cover though delrin would of done same job.
shearwater HUD was hardwired into the loom junction box so no piggy back on cells
potting compound not silicon used on battery box and all connections sealed to the best available.
golem BOV ,offboard connect set up poached from Mr Sutton and seperate O2 for manual inject completes the show.
That was around 41/2 years ago no issues since.
here's a few photo's enjoy.

Pictures by julieanncharters - Photobucket

cheers elfyn
 
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I have thougth of doing the same, the only thing i would do different is to put the incomming cables on the side of the display instead of under. Than you get it more streamlined and would be able to put it on your arm like a "vision on steroids" :)

Great work!
 
I am a late joiner to the club of disillusioned divers about inadequate out-of-the box manufacturer solutions, but same story here, user modifications became an unavoidable necessity (but I was never able to fix the unfixable).

You managed some amazing results with what you did to the Classic Inspo.

Can you post some detailed pictures of how you fully isolated the electronics from the loop particularly how to stop the gas flowing through the inner copper core?
 
I have thougth of doing the same, the only thing i would do different is to put the incomming cables on the side of the display instead of under. Than you get it more streamlined and would be able to put it on your arm like a "vision on steroids" :)

Great work!

yes that was an option at the time .
this was a quick fix @ ambient same as origional.
i agree the two brick approach with side entry would work well with displays running the right way for wrist mount.
would have to relocate the switch to keep the overall size down.
i always wear the master on me arm it has a small curved plate with velcro strap attached.
 
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Hi
they look great would you consider making more. and how much.
Carl

sorry this is not a commercial venture just an example of what can be done if you have the right background and tooling.
i'm sure someone will have a go at the side entry option in the near future,
elfyn
 
I am a late joiner to the club of disillusioned divers about inadequate out-of-the box manufacturer solutions, but same story here, user modifications became an unavoidable necessity (but I was never able to fix the unfixable).

You managed some amazing results with what you did to the Classic Inspo.

Can you post some detailed pictures of how you fully isolated the electronics from the loop particularly how to stop the gas flowing through the inner copper core?

sorry i don't understand your post the whole lot is at ambient including handsets same as the origional.
elfyn
 
Really cracking work. Full marks!

"In the old days" if you didn't have at least a lathe and a soldering iron you did not likely dive a RB. Better a milling machine as well. Your excellent work follows that ethos. Full marks!

Dave

.
 
If they are like the original, why has the user done the mod. and he and others believe it is great and better than the original?

Because the cheap plastic original handset housings crack for fun around the cable gland, time and time again! And Adp just replace them with the same old crap, time and time again!
 
Because the cheap plastic original handset housings crack for fun around the cable gland, time and time again! And Adp just replace them with the same old crap, time and time again!

Cool then, great mod. - well done!

If it does not employ truly 1 ATA handsets and electronics it could be improved further (but equally if it is shown that the circuit board... is impervious to exposure to high O2, humidity, and pressurizations and de-pressurizations...), then maybe it can live happily as is.

I have a circuit board that is perfectly happy to be in a non 1 ATA box and is in a partly 1 ATA box now (soon to be modified to fully 1 ATA though).

However, it has no trimmers, potentiometers, capacitors, and has been tested and warranted to work fine in non 1 ATA boxes (but still I'd like to take the extra step).
 
Look at Elfyns photos. The classic electronics are a fully potted 'brick' inside the handset. You could dunk them in salt water without a problem except for the exposed power switch.
 
Look at Elfyns photos. The classic electronics are a fully potted 'brick' inside the handset. You could dunk them in salt water without a problem except for the exposed power switch.

I did not see that from the pictures... I must have missed it.
 
Looks really nice. Let's hope you don't have to send the electronics in for computer replacement ;-)
don't think that was ever going to be an option do you.:)
lucky we have plenty of spares including matching computer modules should they crap out.
Bit of an update i'm going to start on drawings for side entry handsets using similar retrofit but a lot easier to machine as it will be rectangular .
delrin billet housing ,lexan screem and delrin top plate with usual mag sliiders.
switch will have to be moved.
will be a lot faster to machine and will be easier to copy.
the other skipper i'm in charters with is ready for an upgrade so his will be the test peice.
i rewired his standard unit a couple of years ago since the AP coax loom crapped out at the cell tails.
a handset change will be straight forward just two ends to remake and pot.
i'll post it up when done.
elfyn
 
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Use a FET and a reed switch for the power switch. You can pot those and then all parts are flood safe.
 
Really cracking work. Full marks!

"In the old days" if you didn't have at least a lathe and a soldering iron you did not likely dive a RB. Better a milling machine as well. Your excellent work follows that ethos. Full marks!

Dave

.

cheers dave hope you have a good season.
elfyn
 
Use a FET and a reed switch for the power switch. You can pot those and then all parts are flood safe.

Reed switches can have the same effect as a "battery bounce" - especially if you put them on a handset which can bang more easily.

You would have to make sure that this effect does not have consequences on the electronics.

I suspect it would seriously affect them, insofar on a dive my instructor's Classic shut-down without warning from what he explained was "battery bounce" and was the normal occurrence on these electronics (they do not reboot and restart automatically, they stay shut and have to be restarted manually).

I have a reed switch on my Homebuilt pPO2 Monitor and does not affect the electronics (as they have no processor and software and in any event are very simple).

Just some thoughts... for sharing.
 
Reed switches can have the same effect as a "battery bounce" - especially if you put them on a handset which can bang more easily.

You would have to make sure that this effect does not have consequences on the electronics.

I suspect it would seriously affect them, insofar on a dive my instructor's Classic shut-down without warning from what he explained was "battery bounce" and was the normal occurrence on these electronics (they do not reboot and restart automatically, they stay shut and have to be restarted manually).

I have a reed switch on my Homebuilt pPO2 Monitor and does not affect the electronics (as they have no processor and software and in any event are very simple).

Just some thoughts... for sharing.

yep i agree you need to look long and hard before changing any of the running gear.
yes the origional is a basic microswitch, but there might be a good reason for it apart from low cost :)
 
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