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#11 |
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Deep Pursuit 001
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 240
Thanks: 23
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You should try the 35W HID from Agir Andreas. Its a great light.
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#12 (permalink) |
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CCRX Supporter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 215
Thanks: 20
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
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led's still aren't there for green water
if you want a good sea torch for uk type water (shitty/silty/snotty) then HID seems to still be the way forward. was diving a puddle today (sea was closed) with a guy had MB-Sub cave and it was seriously outclassed by even a 21w HID check out light monkey if you want a decent torch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Cheers, Charlie |
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#14 (permalink) |
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gian @ gian.ameri.name
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Hello I cave dive and find myself in different visibilty conditions several times on the same dive.I am planning to buy a dive light, any recomendations here in cold baltic muddy whaters have tryed many products from light-for-me. Nothing works.. Due to the narrow beam. Can anyone suggest something whide beamed or home builds? What I found works for me is 6 18650 torches with 7 degrees beam each. The combined lumens is greater than a single Tek umbilical torch. The light output and color is good for a 3 hour dive, and in emergency they are good in excess of 6 hours. The beam is the sum total of six 7 degree beams, partly overlapping, which as a whole makes a wide, but yet penetrating beam. You have 6 totally independent lights, small, no cable, no big battery canister. It may not be fashionable because it goes against the trend and is not DIR, but it works and is dependable (no reed switches or buttons to fail either). The downside in Open Water is that you need some kind of helmet to hold them and you'll be ridiculed, but for night diving or low-vis diving I would not hesitate to use it over any more fashionable umbilical torch. ...and each torch costs GBP. 55 and 4 would be plenty enough (6 is over-kill, but they fit on the helmet, so why not!). This is my experience having tried various systems in all sorts of murky waters.
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www.rebreathermallorca.com - Just as equipment is not an acceptable substitute for the proper skill and experience, skill and experience are not an acceptable substitute for proper equipment. Plan all diving so that it can be completed safely without the action or inaction of a fellow diver. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Poland
Posts: 293
Thanks: 1
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GRALMARINE LIGHTS - HLBDIVE plongée technique loisir souterraine
Good standard and quality. K Starnawski use of their products, other cave divers extremely. greet rc
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Member of the Polish Hyperbaric Medicine and Technology Society. The opinions expressed, are the only personal views. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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gian @ gian.ameri.name
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I cave dive and find myself in different visibilty conditions several times on the same dive. Here is what I mean (not trendy/fashionable, but functional for all diving; key is to angle the lights slightly outwards to avoid glare/backscatter):What I found works for me is 6 18650 torches with 7 degrees beam each. The combined lumens is greater than a single Tek umbilical torch. The light output and color is good for a 3 hour dive, and in emergency they are good in excess of 6 hours. The beam is the sum total of six 7 degree beams, partly overlapping, which as a whole makes a wide, but yet penetrating beam. You have 6 totally independent lights, small, no cable, no big battery canister. It may not be fashionable because it goes against the trend and is not DIR, but it works and is dependable (no reed switches or buttons to fail either). The downside in Open Water is that you need some kind of helmet to hold them and you'll be ridiculed, but for night diving or low-vis diving I would not hesitate to use it over any more fashionable umbilical torch. ...and each torch costs GBP. 55 and 4 would be plenty enough (6 is over-kill, but they fit on the helmet, so why not!). This is my experience having tried various systems in all sorts of murky waters.
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www.rebreathermallorca.com - Just as equipment is not an acceptable substitute for the proper skill and experience, skill and experience are not an acceptable substitute for proper equipment. Plan all diving so that it can be completed safely without the action or inaction of a fellow diver. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Doing What Works
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 181
Thanks: 2
Thanked 26 Times in 20 Posts
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Underwater Light Dude LD-26, the thing is just awesome for the amount of light it puts out. No hot spot and a long burn time.
Underwater Light Dude |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Supporting Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 322
Thanks: 236
Thanked 49 Times in 22 Posts
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I cave dive and find myself in different visibilty conditions several times on the same dive. Gian is a much more expierienced caver diver than I, but I must comment that my experience is different than his.What I found works for me is 6 18650 torches with 7 degrees beam each. The combined lumens is greater than a single Tek umbilical torch. The light output and color is good for a 3 hour dive, and in emergency they are good in excess of 6 hours. The beam is the sum total of six 7 degree beams, partly overlapping, which as a whole makes a wide, but yet penetrating beam. You have 6 totally independent lights, small, no cable, no big battery canister. It may not be fashionable because it goes against the trend and is not DIR, but it works and is dependable (no reed switches or buttons to fail either). The downside in Open Water is that you need some kind of helmet to hold them and you'll be ridiculed, but for night diving or low-vis diving I would not hesitate to use it over any more fashionable umbilical torch. ...and each torch costs GBP. 55 and 4 would be plenty enough (6 is over-kill, but they fit on the helmet, so why not!). This is my experience having tried various systems in all sorts of murky waters. As I am more of a sump diver than big cave diver, helmet lights are a matter of course for me. What I find is that when in poor vis conditions is that the back scatter from helmet lights is horendous. Last summer after wiggling thru a constsriction I stirred things up and was blinded by back scatter untill I un mounted a helmet light and held it out to arms length. When diving in our typical murcky ocean waters here I have found that my Light Monkey 21 watt LED is not nearly as good as the Light Monkey HID,same wattage, that my friend has. It seems the HID cuts the murk better. Peter |
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#20 (permalink) |
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gian @ gian.ameri.name
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Gian is a much more expierienced caver diver than I, but I must comment that my experience is different than his. No, no, no... I am not an "expert" at anything, but what you say is true if the helmet lights are pointed forward. The brighter they are, if pointed forward, the worse it is.As I am more of a sump diver than big cave diver, helmet lights are a matter of course for me. What I find is that when in poor vis conditions is that the back scatter from helmet lights is horendous. Last summer after wiggling thru a constsriction I stirred things up and was blinded by back scatter untill I un mounted a helmet light and held it out to arms length. When diving in our typical murcky ocean waters here I have found that my Light Monkey 21 watt LED is not nearly as good as the Light Monkey HID,same wattage, that my friend has. It seems the HID cuts the murk better. Peter They have to be angled outward, pointing slightly outward. Any light pointed forward will cause backscatter (and if you put them near your mask and parallel to your line of sight it will be horrendous in any visibility). What I do is similar to what you did when you removed the helmet. All you need though is to point the lights on the helmet outward I'd say 5 degrees. The helmet is already angled or formed to do that naturally, if you use bungee to secure the forward part of the light, and rigid nylon tie straps to secure the rear, and you pull the tie straps a bit tight (no need to use max. force). In no vis., you still get no vis. though... don't expect to penetrate silt with any light.
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www.rebreathermallorca.com - Just as equipment is not an acceptable substitute for the proper skill and experience, skill and experience are not an acceptable substitute for proper equipment. Plan all diving so that it can be completed safely without the action or inaction of a fellow diver. |
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